By: Sukaina Kazmi
The first time I visited my family in Peshawar I was probably seven and spent the summer there. I have the fondest memories of the place but being of that age, my carefree days were spent flying/chasing guddis with cousins, or lazy afternoons imagining stories of all the possible treasures that could be found underneath this 150 year pre-partition home. Fast forward twenty-two years, here I was standing in the same house, but eager to step out and see more of the city. Getting to see some of the old/Andhrun/Sheher, it dawned on me how Peshawar was so much more than what we’ve been associating it with. It’s bared the brunt of time, and while one may think there’s a poignant-melancholy hanging in the air of all that’s happened and lost, you can’t deny the historical grandeur of this 2700 year old city which still stands as a witness to it all.
Where stories resonate from each stone- within and outside of the Qissa Khwani Bazaar.-the story tellers market also known as the “Picadilly of South Asia” as coined by lowell Thomas.
An ode to this magnificent city-hidden only in its own shadows and a thought provoking reminder of what it was and how it should be remembered are the numerous names it’s carried, Intertwining the history of the Indian Subcontinent this region was known as Puruṣapura which in Sanskrit literally means the “city of men”.-found in the 5th century BC on the plains of Gandhara-as the Indo-Aryan ancient Kingdom, as the 6th most beautiful place in the world created by Ahura Mazda. Or as the Greek “Caspatyrus” – believed to be the city 327 A.D when Alexander the Great. A Persian form of the name, Gandhara is mentioned by Herodotus in the context of the story of the Greek explorer Scylax of Caryanda who had sailed down the Indus River referring to the beginning of the journey from the city of Caspatyrus in Gandhara.
Also referred to as the “Crown Jewel” of Bactria, which covered the region of Central Asia spanning over Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan and parts of Northern Pakistan. Primarily because Peshawar has been the centre of trade for centuries Central Asia,West Asia and the Indian Subcontinent. The Sethi Mohalla reaffirms this by its lavish display of affluent businessmen. The architecture depicting Gadhara art blending with layouts of Bukhara, Uzbekistan while the ceilings are designed with Islamic art. The Sethi House is not only an exquisite piece of art on display but is a modern day green architecture with structures providing ventilation and a marvelous foundation providing the firm support for it to have withstood earthquakes over the years.
Being among the most ancient cities of the Indian subcontinent, Peshawar has for centuries been a center of trade between West Asia, Central Asia, and the Indian subcontinent. Because of a pivotal location it also served as a cultural and philosophical center for Gandhara Art, Buddhism and Islam. Not only did it welcome them but contributed largely in helping them flourish in the region like Islam in the subcontinent and Buddhism in Central Asia .
History is what shapes a society; it is the universal definition of cause and effect. What our current society looks like is the direct effect of the history that molded it. Thus I would insist the locals, especially youth to step out and go to its museums, see it’s Jamrud Fort’s stones tell the story of the Durrani Empire, enter the walled cities and step into the gateway of the past through the Balahisar Fort, the Mughlai Golden Mosque or Sunehri Masjid. Stand beneath the geometrically patterned, floral painted domes of the Mahabat Khan mosque (read: awe-inspiring Khan not Mohabbat Khan) which is a 17th century structure. Or just walk through the old Caravanserai of Gor Khatri , pass by the food street which will lead you to the embellished walkways of Mohalla Sethian, each corner waiting to share a story you’ve never heard.
The Writer is Islamabad based social activist
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